Bakumatsu Ukiyo-e Tour: Mt. Fuji and the Grand Procession in Hiroshige II’s “Sukiyagashi in the Eastern Capital”
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Today, I would like to introduce “Sukiyagashi in the Eastern Capital” (Toto Sukiyagashi) by Utagawa Hiroshige II, a artwork featuring a beautiful and dynamic landscape from the major ukiyo-e series “Scenes of Famous Places along the Tokaido” (Tokaido Meisho Fukei, also known as Gojoraku Tokaido), published in 1863 near the end of the Edo period.
1. What is “Scenes of Famous Places along the Tokaido”?
“Scenes of Famous Places along the Tokaido” was a large-scale ukiyo-e series planned in conjunction with a major historical event of the late Bakumatsu period: the 14th Shogun Tokugawa Iemochi’s journey to Kyoto.
Led by Utagawa Toyokuni III, the top artists of the era—including Tsukioka Yoshitoshi, Ochiai Yoshiiku, Kawanabe Kyosai, and Utagawa Hiroshige II—gathered to depict post towns and procession scenes along the Tokaido highway.
This featured print was created by Utagawa Hiroshige II, a pupil of Hiroshige I who inherited his master’s atmospheric landscape style.
2. Key Highlights and Compositional Charm of “Sukiyagashi in the Eastern Capital”
“Sukiyagashi” refers to the area around Sukiyabashi in present-day Ginza and Yurakucho, Chiyoda/Chuo Word, Tokyo.
(1) The Imperial Dignity of the Procession
Crossing the bridge from the lower left is a samurai procession wearing matching bright green coats (buchi). The tall feathers (keyari) and horse spears (uma-jirushi) held high convey the grand and festive atmosphere of the Shogun’s departure.
(2) The Outer Moat of Edo Castle and Sukiyabashi Gate
The impressive stone wall and water on the right depict the outer moat of Edo Castle near the Sukiyabashi Gate. In the foreground, water cascades down a sluice gate (waterfall outlet), adding movement and a refreshing rhythm to the composition.
(3) Majestic Mt. Fuji and Samurai Residences
In the far background, white-walled samurai residences stretch across the landscape, with the sacred peak of Mt. Fuji rising grandly behind them. The silhouette of Mt. Fuji against the reddish morning sky enhances the auspiciousness and dignity of the journey.
3. Artwork Details and Highlights Summary
– Title: Sukiyagashi in the Eastern Capital, from Scenes of Famous Places along the Tokaido
– Artist: Utagawa Hiroshige II
– Year: 1863 (Bunkyu 3)
– Location Depicted: Sukiyagashi, Eastern Capital (Edo) (Present-day Ginza / Yurakucho area)
– Key Feature: An orderly, deep perspective composition combining Mt. Fuji, the Edo Castle moat, and a grand procession.
Summary: Reflecting on Present-Day Ginza and Yurakucho
Today, Sukiyabashi (near Yurakucho Marion and the Sukiyabashi Intersection) is one of Tokyo’s bustling shopping districts lined with skyscrapers, but during the Edo period, it offered a scenic view of open water and Mt. Fuji.
This masterpiece showcases Hiroshige II’s signature clean perspective and vibrant color palette.
Next time you take a stroll around Ginza or Yurakucho, why not imagine the late Edo period, when grand processions passed through and Mt. Fuji was clearly visible on the horizon?