[Exploring Edo Through Ukiyo-E] The Curtain Rises on the Shogun’s Journey! An In-Depth Look at “Edo Owaricho” from the Tokaido Famous Places Series
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When thinking of ukiyo-e depicting the scenery along the Tokaido road from Edo to Kyoto, Hiroshige Utagawa’s The Fifty-Three Stations of the Tokaido is widely known. However, in 1863—during the final years of the Tokugawa shogunate—did you know that a master team of artists joined forces to create a massive nishiki-e (woodblock print) series?
That series is “Tokaido Meisho Fukei” (Famous Places Along the Tokaido, commonly known as Gojoraku Tokaido or Gyoretsu Tokaido).
Featuring a star-studded lineup of printmakers who defined the late Edo and Meiji eras—including Utagawa Toyokuni III (Kunisada), Tsukioka Yoshitoshi, Ochiai Yoshiiku, and Kawanabe Kyosai—this series begins with its very first piece: “Tokaido Within: Edo Owaricho.”
1. What Was the Tokaido Famous Places Series?
In 1863 (Bunkyu 3), the 14th Shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi, embarked on a journey to Kyoto (known as Joraku). Amidst the turmoil of the late Bakumatsu period, this was the first time in 229 years that a sitting shogun visited Kyoto, aimed at aligning the samurai government with the Imperial Court (Kobu Gattai) and praying for the expulsion of foreign powers.
To commemorate this historic event, Tokaido Famous Places was published on an emergency basis. Out of discretion toward the shogunate, the series avoided explicitly stating “The Shogun’s Procession.” Instead, it framed the prints as scenic landscapes (Meisho-e), while prominently displaying the grandeur of the Tokugawa clan’s grand parade across the composition.
It was an unparalleled, large-scale project comprising over 160 designs created collaboratively by more than 15 top artists of the day.
2. Key Highlights and Scenery Depicted in “Edo Owaricho”
Serving as the starting point of the journey out of Edo, Owaricho corresponds to the area around today’s Ginza 4-Chome intersection.
This work condenses the iconic landmarks of the area along with the vibrant energy of the procession:
Echigoya (Now Mitsukoshi) Towering on the Right
The imposing structure with blue tiled roofs on the right is Echigoya, famous as Edo’s premier dry-goods store. The curtain hangs with the characters reading “Echigoya,” conveying the bustle of Owaricho as Edo’s top shopping district.
Mount Fuji Standing in the Distance
Beyond the roofline of Echigoya, the elegant silhouette of Mount Fuji is clearly visible. The clear blue sky, serene mountain, and bustling crowd below create a festive atmosphere fit for the shogun’s grand departure.
The Samurai Procession Moving in Orderly Formation
Filling the lower half of the composition is a grand line of samurai wearing bamboo hats and uniform attire. From spear-bearers leading the way to guards surrounding the palanquin, the print vividly captures the sheer scale and dignity of the shogun’s journey.
3. The Artist Behind This Piece: Utagawa Yoshitomi
While renowned masters like Tsukioka Yoshitoshi and Kawanabe Kyosai contributed to the series, this opening piece, “Edo Owaricho,” was designed by Utagawa Yoshitomi, a pupil of Utagawa Kuniyoshi.
Yoshitomi specialized in Yokohama-e (woodblock prints depicting Western customs and foreign influences in newly opened Yokohama). In this print, he skillfully expresses the three-dimensional depth of Edo’s urban space and the lively movement of the passing crowd.
Conclusion: Feeling a Turning Point in History
As the opening scene of Tokaido Famous Places, “Tokaido Within: Edo Owaricho” is far more than a simple travel guide. It serves as an invaluable visual record that transmits the historic moment when the Shogun departed Edo during a turbulent era.
Take a moment to appreciate the roots of Ginza’s streetscape and feel the historical momentum that people of the late Edo period experienced firsthand.